Timeless Elegance – that is the only apt description for a Fabric as beautiful as Chanderi.

This fine, elegant hand-woven fabric from the state of Madhya Pradesh is extremely popular with women from the classes, as well as the masses. It’s their lightweight, glossy texture and rich, classy feel that makes Chanderi so alluring. Chanderi fabric is used to create different ensembles such as saares, scarves, kurtis, lehengas, and suits

Ethnic wear is a category unparalleled. Completely a class apart, it has no competition. No wonder it continues to be a top choice for celebrities as well as mere mortals who still treasure their silks in the closet from generations ago. Chanderi falls amongst this category. The weave, which hails from a small town in Madhya Pradesh, was once used to dress royalty and is described to be as light as woven air.

THE EVOLUTION – ONCE WOVEN TO DRAPE ROYALTY

The Chanderi as it is known today, is a fabric woven with a silk warp and a 100-count cotton weft. However, up until the ’50s, it was woven entirely with 200-count cotton. Chanderi was as famous as jamdani, and used to make pagdis for the kings as well as saris and dhotis.

Though historical records show that Chanderi weaves have been around since the 11th century, references in Indian mythology to the Vedic period suggest that the Chanderi fabric was introduced by Lord Krishna’s cousin Shishupal.

Chanderi fabric derives its name from its place of origin, a village in Madhya Pradesh called Chanderi which is the weavers colony that originally produced this exquisite fabric. Chanderi town has always been known as the hub for weaving world class Chanderi using handspun cotton warps and wefts.

The fabric is woven by merging silk and zari thread with cotton yarn which gives Chanderi its defining glint. This is the reason why it’s extremely lightweight and breathable; also why it is a sought after choice in humid and hot climates. Chanderi comes in different forms from pure cotton to blend with silk and its motifs tend to be hand-woven. It is created by intricately weaving finely textured cotton with rich and lustrous silk threads that give the fabric its notorious sheen.

While pure gold and silver threading were primarily used in the royal era, in recent times it has been replaced with metallic toned threads. It is often embellished with zardozi work and nowadays, even other luxurious enhancements such as beads, stones, etc.

TYPES OF CHANDERI

There are three main varieties of Chanderi sarees in India- silk, cotton silk and cotton. Traditionally, both cotton and silk were combined using a complicated and intricate weaving process to produce a light, beautiful fabric that combined the best of both the raw materials.

To date, the fabric has retained its timeless appeal. Pure Chanderi silk sarees are best known for their striking sheen and classy repertoire. Interestingly, Chanderi sarees are also known as WOVEN AIR due to their gauzy, sheer look and transparency.

STYLING AND PATTERNS

Over the years, motif designs on Chanderi have evolved quite a bit. While it was limited to florals, peacocks, animals and coin. There has been a significant transformation in the motif designs of Chanderi over the years.

The traditional weave patterns were nal pherwa, dandidar border, chatai, jangla, bundi, ganga jamuni, ashrafi booti etc.

In terms of colours, the shades used earlier were red, purple, pale blue, pistachio green, white and black. While now we have a palette of new colours like yellow, lime green, midnight blue and sharbati pink, which had never seen before in Chanderi.

Dig deep enough in your mum’s closet and you might be lucky to find a Chanderi saree or salwar kameez that has lasted through the decades. The good news is it can be styled in more modern ways too. A Chanderi dupatta or stole can be draped over jeans or leggings and belted at the waist to give an elevated fusion look. To take it up a notch, the same garment can even be folded and tied as a bandeau top with a lehenga skirt for a summer wedding. It may be a traditional fabric but nothing can stop Chanderi from being a chic fashion addition to one’s ethnic looks.

The Popularity and Future of Chanderi

One thing is for certain; Chanderi isn’t going anywhere. Chanderi is a popular fabric primarily for its range. “The beauty of the fabric is its sheer look. Many are now opting for Chanderi lehengas instead of heavy raw silk ones, unless it’s a bridal outfit.” But it isn’t only its appearance that makes this fabric the most sought after. It’s made from a natural fibre, is very airy and extremely comfortable, which is perfect for Indian climate.

Sustainability

The future of Chanderi is bright as long people still write about it and wear it often, and the saris do not collect dust in cupboards. Wearing Chanderi is more important than buying it, because it will inspire others and help the imagery of the future.

There is also a certain responsibility on the designers to build sustainability in our houses and use design to support the craft. Therefore, sustainable fashion has the potential to empower consumers’ feeling of fulfilment by making more conscious choices and their consumption of sustainable fashion products.